
#1 on Tripadvisor.com. Your eyes don't fool you, the sun loungers are submerged in water.
I love to travel. On top of that, I love to research and plan. Whenever we decide on a vacation, you can be sure that I have cross checked tripadvisor.com versus realtravelblog.com and so on. I love vacations- I love taking them, planning for them, packing for them, telling all my jealous friends about them. You get the drift.
While I am somewhat open as to where I travel, I have a definite check list. I prefer warm climes to cold, especially in the summer. I prefer to stay at smaller intimate boutique hotels, preferably with sun loungers half submerged in the hotel’s immaculate pool. I shy away from mega resorts, or anything that Lonely Planet describes as a “deal”, which to many an untrained ear is code speak for “hostel for crusty backpackers”. I’m old to enough to only get three weeks of vacation; these weeks will not be spent in squalor, no matter how “real” or “authentic” it makes the experience. If you can afford a $1k plane ticket, let’s not cut corners on accommodations. Am I right? Of course I am.
I have become this way due to a trip that Guy and I took when we first began to date. As I mentioned before, Guy and I had a trip planned to Costa Rica, which then became a trip to Greece. In the end, it became a trip to the South of Spain, with a side trip to Greece. I was excited to enjoy warm weather, some cocktails by the pool and a week of R & R.
My brother was renting a villa with his wife and friends on the Southern coast of Spain in March- as it happened, it was the same week that Guy and I had tickets to fly to Greece. The pictures of the villa were gorgeous- it had a pool that overlooked a beatiful valley that headed down to the little coastal town. Please refer to checklist in paragraph 2.
We rearranged our plans to fly into a small airport in the city of Malaga, Spain. Emails were exchanged, everyone was so excited! So excited, that maybe we forgot to get the actual address of the villa. Woopsie daisy.
The one issue is that I didn’t realize this until I was packing the evening before our flight was to leave. I was looking through the various print outs of the villa, and when looking closer, I realized, no, that wasn’t an address, that was simply a location- no specifics were mentioned, just the town. We were headed to Andalucia, Spain. Nice! I tried to contact my brother, but he was already abroad, and was not as diligent in checking emails as I would have hoped. How dare he not check his gmail three times a day while on vacation from B-School. Damn him!
Guy could not have been more pleased unless you had told him we were going to re-enact “Into the Wild” with no more than our ill-conceived plan, a bag of rice and a backpack. This was his idea of an adventure! He loves the idea of buying a plane ticket and seeing what happens once you get there. Which as it happens, is my worst nightmare. I decided to be a sport about it since, really, I had gotten us into this. We hopped in a cab and headed to JFK to catch our flight to Malaga. I was confident that upon landing that we would have a shiny, happy email from my brother, replete with address and mapquest directions.
When we arrived in Malaga, I was torn. We had a car rental reservation, but still, no address. What to do, what to do. Guy suggested we camp out that night in Malaga. This sounded reasonable enough, so we went to the concierge desk at the airport. Guy asked her for a hotel recommendation, we hopped in a cab and headed into the town of Malaga.
Malaga is really quite gorgeous. It’s a port town, with old-city charm and cobblestone streets. If one were to be stranded, one could do worse. That is, until we pulled up to our hotel. Let me set the scene:
Gargamel: {looking straight ahead about 100 yards) Ooh, look at that pretty hotel! It’s so nice!!!
Cab driver: Estamos aqui!
Gargamel: Why is he stopping?
Guy Smiley: This is our hotel. NOT that one.
I looked up to see what American college students refer to as a hostel. Or what Lonely Planet might label a “deal”. Not the beautiful 4 star resort farther down the street, but a hole in the wall hostel. As Ms. Houston would say “Aw, hell to the naw!!”
We took our bags up the three flights of stairs (elevator was broken, obviously) and checked into our room. What a lovely view. Of an alley. Through bars. And so 13 hours after taking off from New York, I burst into tears in a hostel in Malaga, Spain.
Guy rightfully decided that my breakdown was due to being hungry. I was in “foreign country -with-no-plan shock”, and needed a meal. Luckily, as any Lonely Planet pothead backpacker knows, when staying at a hostel, one can always find cheap eats nearby. In Malaga, this is known as McDonalds. And Gargamel was never happier to see a McDonalds in all her life. I just needed that little bit of America to pull me together.
As I stuffed my #2 down my gullet (mmm, #2…..), we tried to hatch a plan. I needed a plan. A plan that did not include me staying in the hostel. I was employed dammit. Not living off the grid. After we finished off our delicious milkshakes (McDonalds does taste exactly the same no matter where in the world you are), we headed over to the 4 star resort and ventured up to the reception area.
Guy Smiley: Hi! Do you have any rooms available for the evening?
Receptionist: Yes sir. But our accommodations are very expensive.
Gargamel: (Incensed! then, looking down at self and Guy Smiley, realizing that after now 14 hours of travel, we indeed looked like Lonely Planet off-the-gridders)
Fortified with good ol’ Mickey Dees, I was not ready to give up on heading directly to our destination, whereever that may be. I figured it made more sense to at least head to the city we were to stay in and stay overnight in a hotel there, then in this city 100 miles away. We had the name of the town. Why not just take a cab there and cross our fingers that we run into my brother when we arrive? (When in stressful situations, I pretend my life is a movie, where it all comes together in the end, just like so). So we headed back to the hostel, grabbed our bags and hailed a cab.
When we showed the cab driver our ultimate destination, he nodded and said “Si!”. Guy and I looked at eachother in confusion. Wait a minute! This guy knew how to get us to the villa? Incredible! He motioned for us to wait one minute and got out of the cab. He started to converse with the driver behind us. For ten minutes. Finally he came back in the cab and asked us a series of questions in Spanish. We just kept pointing to the print out. He insisted back “Es muy grande!! Andalucia es muy grande” (or whatever the proper Spanish grammar equivalent is). We could not agree more. Andalucia does look great! Can’t wait! Can you drive us there?
And so we drove. And we became increasingly confused when he drove us back to the airport. And he looked confused when we wouldn’t depart his cab.
We headed back to the concierge desk, asking in desperate tones for her to help us get transportation. In perfect English, she kept asking for the address. To which we replied by pointing to our printout and saying “We just need to get here. To this town.” And she replied, “That is a region of Spain. That is like asking a cab to drive you to New Jersey from New York. But where in New Jersey!? You don’t have a town listed here”.
The whole time we had thought we had the town and region, when really, we were basically pleading in our sad Spanish for our cab driver to take us to “Rocky Mountains, USA”. That whole “stupid Americans” stereotype? Alive and well in Malaga, Spain. You’re very welcome. Think nothing of it!
The next few hours were a blur of internet cafes and gmail checking, but in my desperation, I went back through all of the emails I had received about the trip. And that one I never read. The one with the address. Woopsie!
No time for “I told you so’s” - we were headed back to the taxi line. A couple of hours later, we came upon the picturesque town of Salobrena. Or so it seemed in its pitch blackness. Good thing we hadn’t planned on staying in “town” as there was really none to speak of. It consisted of a restaurant (closed) and a hospital. Which we pulled up to.
Gargamel: This doesn’t look like a villa.
Guy: At least we know where the hospital is, should we need it.
The cab driver hopped back in the cab and explained to us, that yes, this was the town of Salobrena. But our address was unfamiliar. So he asked in the hospital and they informed him that across the highway, there was a new development, which must have been where the villa was located.
We looped our way up the hill in total darkness. No street signs to speak of. We were thoroughly lost, even five minutes away from our destination. We headed back down the hill. Located at the base, we discovered a worn painted map of the development, but no “calle de las montanas”. Finally, a car pulled up and asked us if we needed help. We told them the address, and they responded “Oh, you never would have found that on your own. Follow us”. And we looped back and forth back up the mountain, and finally, happened upon a private driveway, also known as “calle de las montanas”. We had finally made it.
A few days later, my brother cut his finger badly on a broken shard of glass and would require stitches. Guy and I were happy to tell them we knew where the hospital was located.
In the end, some classic stories came out of that week. How it rained more than it had in 40 years, and we were stuck with solar powered heat. How members of the group almost came to blows and cliques were formed. Besides these memories, what stays with us is that Guy got an adventure in a foreign country and I learned to always plan, plan, plan. And then I plan some more. Which brings me to our sidetrip to Greece……….